For quite a while I wanted to try to make a wrap top that would be fitted and just come to around hip length. I tried lots of different patterns some of which didn't suit me at all and some that I liked but couldn't get to fit very well.
Then I decided to try the Simplicity 8735 Wrap Dress. The pattern is for a wrap dress with flared skirt in two lengths plus a slim skirt option. The pattern also has multiple bra cup size options for B, C, D and DD and 4 sleeve variations.
As I am a bit miserly when it comes to the fabric for my toiles I decided just to cut out up to the hip as I know that if I could get that bit to fit, the skirt would be fine. After a few tweaks to the fit of the toile, I loved the hacked version so much I decided to use up some cotton from my stash to make my first version.
It is designed for medium wovens and stable knits with not much stretch. The pattern recommends chambray, cotton types, crepe, jersey, lightweight denim, linen types, microsuede, ponte, silky types and stretch velvet.
Sizing goes from 6 to 24. This covers
bust sizes from 30 1/2 inches (77.5 cm) to 46 inches (117 cm)
waist sizes from 23 inches (58.5 cm) to 39 inches (99 cm)
hip sizes from 32 1/2 inches (88.5 cm) to 48 inches (122 cm).
The pattern envelope also gives the finished garment measurements for the different cup sizes and in the instructions there are notes on how to work out what cup size you need based on your high/upper bust measurement and your full bust measurement.
As a guide there are 4 inches (10 cm) of ease built into the B cup bust then 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) added on for each cup size up to DD.
Size I Made
I made the size 14 C cup but I did have to make some modifications (see details below).
My Measurements and Body Type
Body type: I am an H shape from the front but I stick out a bit at the front at the boobs and at the back at the bum. I also have a bit of a rounded upper back (from too much time on a computer!)
Adjustments I Made
For the first version working with the non-stretch cotton was quite straightforward. I did make some adjustments which I commonly make on other patterns.
It was great that the back of the pattern was in two pieces joined at the waist as this allowed me to take out 1 cm from the length of the upper bodice at the centre back to 0 cm at the side seam. I shortened the overall length by 1.5 cm too as I have a short back.
For the back skirt piece I widened it to fit my hips as I quite narrow at my back waist and carry more of my weight across the back of my hips/bum.
I pinned out the curve of the princess seam slightly to remove around 1/4 inch from each front piece just above the bust. I also shortened the side seam for the side front by 5/8 inch.
This helped to get a more snug fit across the wrap.
When I made the cotton jersey version I found I had to take it in a bit more to get it more fitted so ended up shortening the shoulder by 1/2 inch at the armhole and blending back into the original armhole curve on the front and back.
I also took 1/2 inch off the side seams from the armhole, through the waist to about half way down the peplum.
I also ended up halving the length of the tie on this version because I used D-rings to create the fastening which doesn't require as much length as tying a bow.
Fabric I Used
I have now made 3 versions of this top in different fabrics.